Mar 11, 2009

PFW FW09 TOP PICKS

disclaimer: i'm not covering balmain/valentino simply because i'm sure everyone else will be...and my picks in this entry get better as you go along. this was the most exciting of the FWs for me. have fun!!!
 
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giambattista valli

quietly elegant and with a ladylike sophistication, this collection was less flashy-fab than what i expected (neon platforms, anyone!??!)...
skirts were long and lean, with a gathered waist. valli kept his proportions close to the body, with voluminous, architectural sleeves, narrow waists and ended with a wonderfully luxe indulgence of a peacock-feather dress that referenced gucci without being starstruck. 
 
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isabel marant

as usual: on the pulse of parisian chic street fashion for the ingenue! i love how carefree yet put-together the quintessential marant girl is. you can spot her a mile away.
 ms marant can design as well as she can style-- short skirts! hemlines! legs! a slit here, ruffles there, throw on a shagreen coat! sequins! leopard print! belt it all up!
and in the midst of all the girlish exclamation...
THOSE FREAKING BOOTS. they are amazing. emmanuelle alt got to them first.
it's almost like she wants to say-
have fun with fashion; its not what you wear, its HOW you wear it.

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stella mccartney

understated, uncluttered, uncomplicated. that's not to say that this collection was without its brilliant moments...but one got the sense that a zen-like cool was the order of the day in the midst of the global Chicken Littles and their self-created chaos.
tailored loose-fit pants, loose kaftan-like dresses, unfussy jackets--all in a japanese-pebble palette of neutrals, grays and blues. washed down with sensible flats.
 
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yves saint laurent

oh where do i even begin. LOVED THIS! such a strong coherent collection from start to finish--
palette: black, white, gray. 
styling: all woman. red lips, hair pulled back. this is serious business, kids.
silhouette: hourglass. waist waist waist, plenty of deep Vs for sex appeal. 
everything was tailored to within an inch of its own perfection and finished off with more of those lovely platforms ysl has been doing. 
(although, despite the iconic status of the tribute range of shoes, these new platforms in a slight v-front do remind me of last season's jil sanders. but no matter--ysl's twig-like stiletto heel is unmistakable to the fashion set.)

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haider ackermann

way under the fashion radar that is all but in love with messrs decarnin and (just before him), ghesquire, haider ackermann is nonetheless one of the most inventive and original designers out there.
 
incredibly sultry and seductive, his drapery and mastery of the material on the female form would put donatella and giorgio to shame. close to the body and sexy beyond belief, no skin need be shown in his clothes. his leather jackets are the most gorgeous i've seen so far, blowing even balenciaga out of the park.  sleek, sexy, luxe, but with none of that overt girliness that labels like dior tend to favor. this is fashion for the thinking girl. and i want me all of that. 
 
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dries van noten

i've saved the absolute best for last. this was refreshing and fun, a most sorbet-like delicious palate cleanser of a collection-- 
harking back to 40s America, the dainty ladylike silhouette was paramount, with flowy skirts, sensible pumps, loose-fit pants, silk shirts, belted coats, straight-cut blazers, horn-rimmed shades, and nothing below the knee: ALL IN RICHLY SLAPDASH DELICIOUS POPS OF COLOR that you can conceivably mix and match to your heart's content. 

this was intellectual, fluid, pragmatic fashion that wasn't afraid to inject color into the sombre-ness of the season amidst the gloom and doom generally permeating the austere collections we've seen recently. the silhouettes were simple and practical--no crazy-ass shoulder pads or indecent hemlines, nothing crudely sexed-up, nor anything but good old pumps. it almost reminded me of a more sophisticated, more grown-up version of last season's marni with the colors...

his famous prints gave way to simplicity of cut and solid colors, but in the retro-coolness of it all, the rainbow of salmon, teal, burgundy, mustard, cobalt and mint that was this collection will sell and produce that proverbial pot of gold. 

11 comments:

stellawantstodie said...

you´re right! sawyer is hot damn!!!!

:)

love isabel marant and G.Valli!

Valentine said...

haider ackermann was truly truly fabulous! i agree.. i want everything in his collection! :-) and I love your choices too YSL was tops for me as well..I wasnt so into Dries at first but the color + pantsuits were amazing. :-)

xx

Madeline said...

great summary of the shows. can ysl do any wrong? I'm pretty sure not

Ashford said...

dries just keeps getting better! I think one more collection and I might die. The colors are divine.

Ms. Marant was nice too. I've seen a lot of leopard popping up lately.

Cathy Voyage said...

Balmain looks great!

She's Dressing Up said...

The colour at Dries Van Norten makes me want to hide all of my black items and buy lots of nice bright things!

Tina { Luphia Loves... } said...

amazing collections! so many great images on your lovely blog! :)

Ziling said...

I agree with what you said about salvatore ferragamo collection! They loook like pieces you've seen somewhere else but i canno help but fall in love with their knitted sweater and the furs!! I love haider ackermann, dries van noten and giambattista valli's. They are fabulous! Great choices hun! x

* Fashion Dreamer * said...

Great picks! Love the Isabel Marant collection particularly

Maverick said...

I love Giambattista Valli!!! :D I also love the major comeback of platforms :)

Annie said...

stella and dries were definitely in my top five all season. SO GOOD.